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The half-pound patty Hulk-punched the bun, blasting apart the bready bookends, and it all became a burger-green chili salad. Unlike the Montlake Cut cheeseburger, which has a nest of iceberg lettuce and onion that has a fresh crunch, this onion-lettuce was so finely cut it turned to hot mush. It wasn’t grill char - it was overwhelming metallic heat. The flavor that hit immediately was burnt beef and blunting salt. The patty was sternly seared and darkly charred on the outside, leading to a mostly pink interior (I asked for medium-rare). On a recent visit, the inch of diced green chiles piled on top caused a flurry of “wows,” and dwarfed ceviches and fundidos. It’s a skyscraper of a burger, designed to draw eyes as it’s walked out of the kitchen, a half-pounder proudly tall and skewered ceremoniously like you’ve ground the beef yourself with the chef. The cheeseburger at Desert Racer busts this dynasty.

Ground-in-house chuck, sometimes brisket and shoulder clod, is seasoned with precision. The Badovinus burgers are intelligent, sharply focused. A hulking cheeseburger nested on shredded lettuce, the red onion dressed with oil and vinegar, with Tillamook cheddar, is a mini coastal escape at Montlake Cut - you can nearly hear the boats thunking at the dock nearby. Off-Site Kitchen is a summertime backyard utopia (see: peanut butter burger). There is a burger in all corners of his joints, and each specializes in its own feeling of comfort. The restaurants of Nick Badovinus have been blessed with meat.